Green, the New Red

Columnist Whitney Kessler
Posted on Tuesday 18th August 2009

It makes sense to start our journey of green fashion at the core of daily clothing — underwear.

All too often, consumers assume that green clothing is harder to find and will be more expensive. What consumers need to remember is that when we argue against the way clothing is made, the fashion industry will be forced to answer with a more agreeable product.

I used to buy my underwear at normal department stores. I had very little knowledge of how they were produced and how they arrived at the store. I might not have even wanted to know because then I would have become responsible for my own clothing choices.

Here is what I now understand:
The issue isn’t what underwear is made out of, as much as how underwear is made.

According to Pollution Issues, a website that monitors responsible eco-practices, more pesticides are used to produce conventional cotton than any other crop worldwide. The cotton industry single-handedly supports 16-25% of the insecticide market. Around 70% of US-grown cotton grows from planted genetically modified organism seeds, which implies a number of environmental and economic consequences, according to AboutOrganicCotton.org.

Why cover our most hidden places with cloth that is harmful?

Aleta Kasper-Halter, the founder of Kasper Organics, says: "It never occurred to me that the cotton clothing I was complacently buying was loaded with toxic chemicals. Not just the pesticides, herbicides and synthetic fertilizers used to grow the cotton, but the chemicals used to process, bleach and dye the cotton as well."

She notes that she bought organic food for her family long before she gave up her toxic clothing habits. "What we wear may not seem as important as what we eat, but our skin is not a solid barrier protecting us from everything we come into contact with. Our skin lives and breathes and can also absorb toxins."

After this revelation, she started Kasper Organics as a supplier of organic cotton clothing. The company strives to supply products that people can know are green through and through, at affordable prices. This goal is achieved by hand-picking cotton suppliers which uphold the environmental and social standards Kasper Organics stands for, giving consumers a direct connection to their clothing.

Organic cotton is grown in 22 countries, with China, India, Syria, Turkey and the United States producing the largest percentages. According to the 2008 Organic Exchange Farm & Fiber Report, production of organic cotton increased 60% in the 2007/08 season. Farming of organic cotton is projected to continue its rapid worldwide growth, but depends on dedicated demand from the fashion industry and consumers. By asking for organic, we support an environmentally safe farming and production process, the continued research and development of organic farming, and responsible labor practices through integrity standards. According to Organic Exchange, part of the fight against conventional cotton growth is the harmful effects the farms have on the surrounding areas and people, as well as the danger of chemical side effects on employees. Organic cotton farming requires less water due to increased organic matter in the soil, uses no chemical pesticides or insecticides, improves soil quality, aids in crop rotation, and eliminates the breakdown of ecosystems and biodiversity that conventional cotton growth causes, according to AboutOrganicCotton.org.

Cape Underwear Manufacturers in South Africa is just one of the listed lingerie companies under Organic Exchange’s list of members. Organic Exchange promotes organic agriculture by working to increase production of organic fibers in order to replace conventional fibers within many industries. Here are several well-known brands that also adhere to the standards Organic Exchange is trying to promote:

    Barneys New York
    Adidas Sourcing Ltd.
    Gap Inc.
    Patagonia
    MANGO
    Levi Strauss
    L.L. Bean
    H&M
    R.E.I.

Not only is there now a viable alternative to conventional cotton, but other materials such as bamboo, hemp satin (60 percent hemp, 40 percent organic silk) and recycled nylon are perfect for underwear production. Bamboo is 100 percent biodegradable, naturally grows at a fast rate, and is safe for allergy-prone skin. Hemp can be grown in many climates/regions, naturally propels insects during growth, and is highly versatile. Recycled nylon and polyester are produced without any crude oil, lessen landfill and incinerator emissions through reuse, and can be recycled multiple times, according to Patagonia.

But how plausible are green undies? Green products are usually more expensive than their counterparts — for now. If the organic farming industry continues to gain support from industry giants and individual clients, the move toward more affordable green fashion is unavoidable. Aleta Kasper-Halter argues: "How we live and how we spend our money always carries a social and environmental impact, whether we choose to take notice of it or not."

American Apparel, Gap, Patagonia, L.L. Bean, and several online sources such as Kasper Organics, provide green underwear in varying styles, colors and prices. If we continue to push for more green options, the number of providers will only grow. I’m willing to protect my dearest parts by buying underwear from companies I know produce responsibly. Maybe you should too.

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